For years, people have been on a quest to keep their skin looking young. Currently, many methods and drugs are used to achieve this goal, in particular: botulinum toxin, fillers, various mesococktails, creams, facelift and others.
One of the popular and effective methods of combating aging in today's cosmetology is the use of preparations containing peptides.
One of the popular and effective methods of combating aging in today's cosmetology is the use of preparations containing peptides.
What are peptides?Peptides are compounds formed from two to fifty amino acid molecules held together by peptide bonds. Their main task is to regulate the work of all biological processes occurring in the human body. They make skin cells work properly, start internal self-regulation mechanisms and restore (rejuvenate) the skin from the inside.
Peptides are "building material", help the body to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, start skin regeneration processes, thereby helping to fill fine lines and wrinkles, improving the appearance of the skin.
Also, peptides are very small in size and, accordingly, have a good ability to penetrate skin cells, which perfectly allows them to fulfill their purpose.
Mesopreparations based on peptides can:
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promote cell regeneration and renewal;
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strengthen collagen and elastin fibers, improving elasticity and elasticity of the skin;
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increase the skin barrier to protect against toxins and ultraviolet rays;
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help fight couperosis and pigment spots;
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diets as an antimicrobial agent to reduce rashes;
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reduce inflammation, irritation, swelling;
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inhibit the functions of the sebaceous glands;
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improve microcirculation and blood circulation;
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accelerate wound healing, prevent the formation of keloid scars;
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evens out skin tone;
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relax facial muscles similar to the effect of botulinum toxin;
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smooth out wrinkles;
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restore damaged skin.
Types and functions of peptides
There are several types of peptides: signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitory peptides, and enzyme inhibitory peptides.
Signal peptides
These peptides have the ability to stimulate skin fibroblasts to produce and restore collagen, elastin and other proteins in the dermis matrix. Increasing the content of these structural proteins makes the skin more elastic and plump. Currently, they are produced synthetically.
Inhibitors of neurotransmitters
These peptides inhibit the release of acetylcholine through various chemical interactions and help fight wrinkles. They are responsible for the contraction of facial muscles, making them less mobile, which causes relaxation and smoothing of wrinkles. These peptides are similar to botulinum toxin. The most popular neuropeptides in cosmetology are Argireline, Inyline, Leuphasyl.
Carrier peptides
These peptides deliver micronutrients such as magnesium, manganese and copper, thereby improving collagen synthesis, skin elasticity and overall skin appearance.
Enzyme inhibitory peptides
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides inhibit the breakdown of collagen and other proteins by interfering with the processes that break down these proteins. Also, they can stimulate the enzyme hyaluronan synthase, which activates hyaluronic acid.
What are the functions of peptides?
Various peptides are used in cosmetology, which, when they get into the dermis, act depending on the amino acid composition.
They can combine from two to fifty amino acids and are divided depending on the number of the latter. If 2 amino acids are a dipeptide, if 3 - a tripeptide, if from 3 to 10 - an oligopeptide, from 10 to 100 - a polypeptide. The largest peptide is called a protein.
Usually, in cosmetic preparations, peptides have a maximum of 10-15 amino acids or even less.
Let's take a closer look at them below to better understand how they work, mentioning some of the most commonly used in the field of cosmetology:
Acetyl glycyl beta-alanine - a peptide for rapid skin whitening prevents the mechanism of pigmentation, inhibits enzymes that generate melanin, prevents the transport of pigment to the upper layers of the skin. Effective for reducing dark spots and improving skin clarity.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 is an anti-aging peptide that fights against skin laxity and dryness, and boosts the skin's immune system.
Acetyl Decapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide consisting of arginine, serine, threonine, tryptophan and tyrosine. Stimulates collagen and elastin production, increasing skin elasticity, accelerates cell growth. It also provides healing and restorative properties, prevents the premature appearance of lines and wrinkles.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 - designed to combat hair loss and stimulate hair growth. Has the ability to stimulate the synthesis of proteins of the extracellular matrix of the follicle (collagen I and III, laminin), which contributes to the renewal of the cells of the dermal papilla and resists the compaction of the hair follicle shell, which causes hair loss. Restores cells of hair follicles and stimulates natural growth of eyebrows and hair.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-39 is a synthetic peptide containing alanine, isoleucine, serine, egreonine, tyrosine and valine. Ideal for fighting cellulite and local fat deposits.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28 is a key element in the regeneration of the extracellular matrix, which inhibits metalloproteinases that destroy collagen. Improves the elasticity and firmness of the skin, and also has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 - reduces the production of dihydrotestosterone to improve the irrigation of the hair follicle, helps to slow down aging, fights premature hair loss, restores and strengthens hair.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a powerful anti-wrinkle peptide derived from the amino acid derivatives of lysine and methionine, a matrikin-mimetic compound that regulates cellular activity, wound healing, and collagen tissue remodeling. Stimulates the synthesis of collagen I, III, I, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid and laminin. Restores the skin from the inside, reduces wrinkles, improves the appearance of the skin, giving it a more youthful and radiant appearance.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a "messenger peptide" that has the ability to "tell" the skin how to look better. Helps to strengthen the main supporting elements of the skin, stimulates fibroblasts and increases collagen production, smoothing fine and deep wrinkles, and improves skin elasticity. Due to its low irritation profile, it is suitable for lip and eye care, strengthening and tightening the sensitive skin around the eyes.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 - formed by a combination of amino acids lysine, valine, lysine. It has the ability to penetrate deep into the dermis (inner layers) of the skin, stimulates the natural production of collagen there, which increases the elasticity of the skin and leads to a reduction in wrinkles. It also improves cell communication and protects cells from toxins.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a synthetic peptide consisting of four amino acids: glycine, glutamine, proline and arginine. These amino acids have a rejuvenating effect, stimulating cell production and accelerating the renewal process by affecting the molecular levels in the skin layers.
Pentapeptide-18 - works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions, thereby reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Reduces the depth of wrinkles on the face caused by the contraction of facial muscles, especially in the forehead and around the eyes.
Pentapeptide-25 - a synthetic innovative peptide for weight loss. Provides the effect of weight loss by reducing lipogenesis, which guarantees a sustainable result of reducing the volume of problem areas without sagging skin.
Pentapeptide-52 - reduces lipogenesis and promotes lipolysis.
Copper Tripeptide-1 - has wound-healing properties, stimulating the breakdown of diseased collagen (in scar tissue) and the production of healthy collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. It has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect, improves skin elasticity and firmness, reduces lines and wrinkles, and improves hair growth and density by increasing hair follicles.
Dipeptide-2 is a synthetic peptide consisting of two amino acids: tryptophan and valine. Promotes skin renewal and regeneration, improves blood circulation by inhibiting the conversion of angiotensin-1 to angiotensin-II, reduces bags under the eyes.
Decapeptide-4 is a synthetic peptide consisting of arginine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, leucine, methionine and tyrosine. Activates collagen and elastin synthesis, strengthens skin elasticity, has regenerating and healing properties, helps fight fine lines and wrinkles.
Diaminobutyroyl-Benzylamide is a synthetic innovative tripeptide that mimics the action of waglerin found in the venom of the Temple Snake. Its effect is based on the rapid and long-term relaxation of facial wrinkles due to the blocking of neuron transmission on nicotinic acetylcholine membrane receptors (mnACR).
Decapeptide-28 - acts as a stimulator of hair growth and rejuvenation. It is a bilayer encapsulated biomimetic peptide that generates a hair placode to stimulate hair growth. It activates the anagen phase and delays the catagen phase to prevent hair loss.
Decapeptide-15 is a synthetic peptide consisting of alanine, asparagine, glycine, isoleucine, proline, threonine and tyrosine. Keeps the skin in good condition, moisturizes and restores the skin, makes it smoother and more elastic, removes wrinkles, activates collagen synthesis, has an anti-inflammatory effect, and increases melanin production.
Hexapeptide-10 is a synthetic peptide containing alanine, isoleucine, lysine, serine and valine residues. Promotes collagen regeneration and helps reduce wrinkles. Increases the synthesis of laminin-5, alpha6-integrin and hemidesmosomes, thus contributing to the strengthening of the dermal-epidermal junction. The skin is restructured, filled, becomes more elastic and elastic, restoring its fullness.
Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide with a Botox-like effect. Its action is based on the relaxation of facial muscles, which reduces mimic wrinkles and slows down the appearance of new ones, helping to preserve the youth of the skin.
Hexapeptide-17 is a synthetic peptide consisting of alanine, glutamic acid, glycine, leucine, phenylalanine and tyrosine. Provides an anti-inflammatory effect, removal of excess fluid from adipose tissue, which helps reduce its volume, and the substance provides and promotes microcirculation.
Hexapeptide-30 - reduces the depth of wrinkles caused by the contraction of facial expression muscles.
Octapeptide-2 - activates stem cells of hair follicles, accelerates cell growth and migration.
Octapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide that belongs to the category of muscle relaxant peptides. By blocking the transmission of nerve impulses, it helps to control facial expressions and thereby prevent the formation of wrinkles. It affects the presynaptic mechanism of muscle contraction, helping to prevent the formation of wrinkles.
Oligopeptide-1 - consists of three amino acids: glycine, histidine and lysine. Promotes the regeneration and rejuvenation of epidermal cells, acts at the molecular and cellular level, slows down the aging process of skin cells.
Oligopeptide-24 is a synthetic peptide that contains 13 amino acids consisting of arginine, aspartic acid, cysteine, isoleucine, glutamic acid, glycine, methionine, and tyrosine. Stimulates the synthesis of elastin and hyaluronic acid, increases the activity of fibroblasts. It is used in cosmetology to fight against wrinkles, and also as a skin-strengthening agent.
Oligopeptide-34 is a synthetic peptide containing 13 amino acids consisting of arginine, aspartic acid, isoleucine, glutamine, leucine, serine, threonine and tryptophan. Whitens the skin, reduces melanin synthesis and the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase in melanocytes, reducing the transfer of melanosomes to new keratinocytes.
Oligopeptide-51 is a synthetic peptide containing 11 amino acids (alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, leucine, serine, threonine and tyrosine). Whitens the skin, helps fight hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Oligopeptide-58 is a synthetic peptide containing 13 amino acids (arginine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, leucine, serine, threonine and tryptophan). It has antioxidant capacity, brightens, moisturizes and soothes the skin, stimulates the production of its own collagen.
Oligopeptide-68 is a signal peptide that contains ten amino acids with the sequence Arg-Asp-Gly-Gln-Ile-Leu-Ser-Thr-Trp-Tyr, the main active ingredient of β-WHITE™. Lightens the skin, works by inhibiting the MITF gene, plays an important role in controlling the production of melanin by skin cells called melanocytes. Helps fight melasma, hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Oligopeptide-71 is a synthetic peptide that contains 12 amino acids consisting of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, histidine, leucine, proline, threonine and tryptophan. Improves hair growth and thickness, helps fight hair loss.
Tripeptide-41 - normalizes the functions of the sebaceous glands, activates the process of splitting fats, has a seboregulating effect (reduces the excessive production of sebum, reducing the greasy shine of the skin), blocks the accumulation of lipids in the fat cell.
Tetrapeptide-5 - consists of four amino acids with anti-edematous, draining and anti-glycating effects. Reduces bags and puffiness under the eyes, and also increases the elasticity and smoothness of the skin.
Tranexamoyl-dipeptide-23 is a product obtained by the reaction of tranexamic acid and dipeptide-23. Intended for whitening or lightening the skin.
Are peptides safe in skin care?
Peptides are highly compatible with human skin and are completely safe for all skin types, as confirmed by the latest Cosmetic Ingredient Expert Panel safety reports published in 2017, 2018 and 2022.
Contraindication
The only contraindications to topical application of peptides are inflammatory processes at the application site and individual sensitivity to these components.
How fast do peptides work?
The result after using mesopreparations with peptides can be different, depending on the composition and its type. In some cases it happens relatively quickly, in others it takes time and the first results will be visible only after 2-4 procedures. The maximum effect appears after 3 months.
The full course depends on various circumstances (age, skin condition) and may consist of 5 to 10 sessions.